When going downhill in an EV and the limit of 25 mph is reached, is the vehicle being braked by the engine or the wheel brakes. Wondering if going down lots of hills will cause premature brake pad failure.
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Going downhill in an EV
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AGM vs FLA and algorithms
hey folks,
new here but have been searching thru the forum. I know this is a topic that has been touched on before, but I'm looking for any fresh info or ideas AND suggestions.
Of course, my batteries are dead. OEM us batt 12VXC.
I called my battery dealer since my local Polaris/Honda/Kawa dealer is notoriously difficult and expensive for just about anything and everything. Here's what I got quoted:
OEM batts- US Batt 12VXC 155AH at $184 each x 8 = $1475
or, he suggested the AGM Centennial CB12-115AH at $260 each x 8 = $2080
I'm not ready for Lithium yet, but sick of maintenance and damaging batts from improper watering, this is a company vehicle and watering can get skipped sometimes. (yes, I know, but that's a separate issue :grin:) We purchased this last set in 2013 and they've been toast for about 2 yrs, but we use it so little that we just let them be toasted. Plugged in whenever not in use, used for short trips to store and around property. Might be used more if the range was further and more reliable.
and yes, I guess a lot depends on the application and budget. And yes, I am aware of the algorithm change and think I know how to do it...thinking I know what I'm doing has gotten me into trouble before though... Delta-Q QuiQ model.
So ye 'ole battery debate:
Flooded Lead Acid vs AGM
FLA- cheaper, more maint., easier to damage, OEM, bigger AH = increase range
AGM- more expensive, less maint and corrosion, longer charge time?, decrease range
Thoughts? is the range decrease really that bad? I've seen a few posts where someone like the AGM switch. anyone hate it? love it?
new here but have been searching thru the forum. I know this is a topic that has been touched on before, but I'm looking for any fresh info or ideas AND suggestions.
Of course, my batteries are dead. OEM us batt 12VXC.
I called my battery dealer since my local Polaris/Honda/Kawa dealer is notoriously difficult and expensive for just about anything and everything. Here's what I got quoted:
OEM batts- US Batt 12VXC 155AH at $184 each x 8 = $1475
or, he suggested the AGM Centennial CB12-115AH at $260 each x 8 = $2080
I'm not ready for Lithium yet, but sick of maintenance and damaging batts from improper watering, this is a company vehicle and watering can get skipped sometimes. (yes, I know, but that's a separate issue :grin:) We purchased this last set in 2013 and they've been toast for about 2 yrs, but we use it so little that we just let them be toasted. Plugged in whenever not in use, used for short trips to store and around property. Might be used more if the range was further and more reliable.
and yes, I guess a lot depends on the application and budget. And yes, I am aware of the algorithm change and think I know how to do it...thinking I know what I'm doing has gotten me into trouble before though... Delta-Q QuiQ model.
So ye 'ole battery debate:
Flooded Lead Acid vs AGM
FLA- cheaper, more maint., easier to damage, OEM, bigger AH = increase range
AGM- more expensive, less maint and corrosion, longer charge time?, decrease range
Thoughts? is the range decrease really that bad? I've seen a few posts where someone like the AGM switch. anyone hate it? love it?
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Not Charging After New Battery Install
Hey guys:
I have a 2014 EV that I had to replace all the batteries on this afternoon. Everything went great, machine runs fine, etc. I went to plug it in and heard the normal clicks I get from the charger, but noticed that the charging indicator light was not on at all. I opened the hood so I could see the charger, and unplugged and plugged in again. The charger went through its up and down sequence, and stopped on the "IIIII" indicating that it is fully charged (I think that is what the IIIII means anyway as it is at the top of the indicators) The ~ on the bottom was lit up as well.
Interestingly, the charging light does come on and begins to flash if you turn on the key. Strange right?
I was very careful and followed the wiring diagram to the letter, and also took pics to ensure it is correct. There is only one exception. One of the cables on one bank that connects to the cylanoid / charger was I believe a 1 gauge cable - not the normal size that the rest are that connect to each battery, but a much thicker one. The original cable was destroyed, so I had to use a regular cable for the connection to that cylanoid / charger as I didn't have any of the thicker ones. Could that be the issue? It's almost like the DeltaQ charger is not getting correct info from the batteries, if that makes sense.
Any info you guys may have would be great.
Thanx guys!
Larry C
I have a 2014 EV that I had to replace all the batteries on this afternoon. Everything went great, machine runs fine, etc. I went to plug it in and heard the normal clicks I get from the charger, but noticed that the charging indicator light was not on at all. I opened the hood so I could see the charger, and unplugged and plugged in again. The charger went through its up and down sequence, and stopped on the "IIIII" indicating that it is fully charged (I think that is what the IIIII means anyway as it is at the top of the indicators) The ~ on the bottom was lit up as well.
Interestingly, the charging light does come on and begins to flash if you turn on the key. Strange right?
I was very careful and followed the wiring diagram to the letter, and also took pics to ensure it is correct. There is only one exception. One of the cables on one bank that connects to the cylanoid / charger was I believe a 1 gauge cable - not the normal size that the rest are that connect to each battery, but a much thicker one. The original cable was destroyed, so I had to use a regular cable for the connection to that cylanoid / charger as I didn't have any of the thicker ones. Could that be the issue? It's almost like the DeltaQ charger is not getting correct info from the batteries, if that makes sense.
Any info you guys may have would be great.
Thanx guys!
Larry C
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Tire questions for the EV
Does anyone know if I can run 27x9x12's on my EV with everything else stock? Would you expect much range loss if any? I will likely go with 26x9x12's all the way around but thought I would ask.
Im looking at:
-Tusk Terrabite
-Kanati Mongrel
-Sedona Rock-A-Billy
Anyone have experience with these? We use the EV everyday here at the house and have crushed granite paths and driveways to deal with. I think a more aggressive tire will disturb my granite more than I like. Also I use it a LOT to show property and need a tough tire, good ride, with as little affect on range as possible. The 26" or 27" will provide a little more ground clearance which will come in handy as well. Don't really need "mud" tires as I avoid mud if at all possible but do get in it from time to time. So far it seems like just about any tread design will handle any mud I get into. I do run into a LOT of rocks. Of course, it also gets used quite a bit at the deer lease hauling hunters around and well, everything else that goes on at the deer lease. Thanks for any help.
Im looking at:
-Tusk Terrabite
-Kanati Mongrel
-Sedona Rock-A-Billy
Anyone have experience with these? We use the EV everyday here at the house and have crushed granite paths and driveways to deal with. I think a more aggressive tire will disturb my granite more than I like. Also I use it a LOT to show property and need a tough tire, good ride, with as little affect on range as possible. The 26" or 27" will provide a little more ground clearance which will come in handy as well. Don't really need "mud" tires as I avoid mud if at all possible but do get in it from time to time. So far it seems like just about any tread design will handle any mud I get into. I do run into a LOT of rocks. Of course, it also gets used quite a bit at the deer lease hauling hunters around and well, everything else that goes on at the deer lease. Thanks for any help.
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Multi Ranger Performance Review
So after a couple years of running them hard in Ohio, NC, and Virginia we have found most all their strengths and weaknesses. Overall they have been great and so far our favorite electric UTV. Very few shortcomings and if we could get Polaris to make a one last effort to finish them out they would be a unbelievable machine.
Likes
Best ride of all UTV's period...
Great power till they over amp or over heat
Great side hill stability especially when adding slightly offset wheels
Love the rear locker
Great brakes
Bed is awesome and love the built in fishing rod holders. (Polaris Lock and ride system). Lol
Overall machine layout is a great design.
Did I mention the ride? :)
Love the dump bed
Seats are very comfortable
Overall range is outstanding compared to comp.
We have several EV's plus other ATV's and UTV's but these are our goto units.
Love the built in charger
Dislikes
Motor is noisier than competition
Parking break is only adequate.
4x4 system is a terrible design but better than 2 wheel drive UTV's.
New models have parking brake located in middle of bench seat
EV's overheat in warmer weather on hills. (This is biggest complaint.)
Hate the non-grease able upper and lower rear outer A-arm bushings. They make noise after seeing mud a few times
Polaris reliability and customer service is weak.
This is based on 5-6 units (2014-2016) all with having 20-300 hours. Hope this helps someone.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Likes
Best ride of all UTV's period...
Great power till they over amp or over heat
Great side hill stability especially when adding slightly offset wheels
Love the rear locker
Great brakes
Bed is awesome and love the built in fishing rod holders. (Polaris Lock and ride system). Lol
Overall machine layout is a great design.
Did I mention the ride? :)
Love the dump bed
Seats are very comfortable
Overall range is outstanding compared to comp.
We have several EV's plus other ATV's and UTV's but these are our goto units.
Love the built in charger
Dislikes
Motor is noisier than competition
Parking break is only adequate.
4x4 system is a terrible design but better than 2 wheel drive UTV's.
New models have parking brake located in middle of bench seat
EV's overheat in warmer weather on hills. (This is biggest complaint.)
Hate the non-grease able upper and lower rear outer A-arm bushings. They make noise after seeing mud a few times
Polaris reliability and customer service is weak.
This is based on 5-6 units (2014-2016) all with having 20-300 hours. Hope this helps someone.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Newbie here! Thanks for this great forum!
I have a 2012 EV that is throwing me a curve ball.
1) When charging the "charging" indicator does not light up on the dash.
2) Also when charging there are 2 amber lights on the charger. One next to the "~" symbol and the other is next to numeral 6
Any help will be appreciated.
1) When charging the "charging" indicator does not light up on the dash.
2) Also when charging there are 2 amber lights on the charger. One next to the "~" symbol and the other is next to numeral 6
Any help will be appreciated.
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Stealth lights
What do you all recommend for a green or red light (headlights, fog lights or light bar) for riding in and out of my hunting areas? I have a 2012 ev with only one setting on my headlights ..."ON"
I really like this setup personally. Any suggestions?
I really like this setup personally. Any suggestions?
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Ranger EV stuck in AWD
My 2014 EV is stuck in awd. I've tried backing up, changing oil in front gear case and it stays stuck. I notice I don't hear the click when I turn the key on like I did when it was working. I assume the problem is either an electrical one or something stuck inside the drive train somewhere.
If someone knows of a way to isolate the problem please let me know.
Thanks
If someone knows of a way to isolate the problem please let me know.
Thanks
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Charger will not start
I have a 2010EV that I plugged in at the same time I was charging my winch batteries that I needed to use winch! After a while I in plugged both the EV charger and Aux battery charger and used unit to do task. I plugged the EV back in later only to find red light blinking on EV charger so I unplugged and waited a few minutes and plugged EV charger back in but no lights came on and I am unable to charge EV, I checked to make sure power source ok, and checked the fuse block located between battery packs under seat and all ok. Am I missing a check or can someone help me this charging issue?
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Reviving a 2011 Ranger EV
I have 6 posts now. Trying to start a thread, trial number 3
I planned on reviving a 2011 Polaris Ranger EV. This thread is intended to document that process, with information that should be helpful to anyone else working on them. But it's first a log of what I tried, what worked, and almost as important - what DID NOT work. To some extent, this could be applied to other EV revival or troubleshooting? I hope so.
So ... to get some of the boring stuff out of the way .. and because I like to tell stories ...
April 2017
I bid on 4 Polaris Ranger EV's, 2011 models, that were giving my employer trouble for quite some time.
During discussions with our maintenance people, I found out that the largest problem that was experienced with the Polaris Ranger EVs involved the batteries.
The original lead-acid battery packs and their chargers were replaced in 2013. We had an incident with another flooded lead acid pack that caused an explosion of hydrogen gas. The mitigation involved replacing all flooded batteries on site.
Polaris, the original supplier, did not have a lithium battery pack solution. A short investigation followed and two local suppliers provided pricing and delivery for the lithium packs, the chargers, the removal of the lead acid packs and chargers, as well as retrofit installation of the new batteries and charger. So these packs are not OEM, and neither are the battery chargers. I have no information on the type of batteries, the charger, the BMS (or even if there IS a BMS) until I get my hands on them.
I was told that the range on the battery packs was an immediate disappointment. The lithium packs did not provide as much range as the original lead packs did. I found this information .. strange. But I will reserve judgment until I actually see the packs. Perhaps the packs were under-sized due to their cost.
The Polaris Rangers are apparently in otherwise good shape mechanically. The controllers still apparently work. But the packs do not supply power any longer. I suspect a problem with the charging system ... or perhaps the BMS if one was supplied? .. but it needs to be investigated.
May 2017
I was the only bidder, so I got all 4 of them. That was not exactly my plan - I had wanted at least one. And it would have been nice to get a second, so that I could compare them and perhaps have a supply of spare parts so that when I found a problem I didn't have to order a part and wait for weeks for it to arrive.
So I plan to show up with a 48V lithium battery pack to connect, replacing the existing pack, and see if I can drive the first one onto my trailer. Or, if I have to, winch the Polaris Ranger EV onto my trailer to bring it home.
I planned on reviving a 2011 Polaris Ranger EV. This thread is intended to document that process, with information that should be helpful to anyone else working on them. But it's first a log of what I tried, what worked, and almost as important - what DID NOT work. To some extent, this could be applied to other EV revival or troubleshooting? I hope so.
So ... to get some of the boring stuff out of the way .. and because I like to tell stories ...
April 2017
I bid on 4 Polaris Ranger EV's, 2011 models, that were giving my employer trouble for quite some time.
During discussions with our maintenance people, I found out that the largest problem that was experienced with the Polaris Ranger EVs involved the batteries.
The original lead-acid battery packs and their chargers were replaced in 2013. We had an incident with another flooded lead acid pack that caused an explosion of hydrogen gas. The mitigation involved replacing all flooded batteries on site.
Polaris, the original supplier, did not have a lithium battery pack solution. A short investigation followed and two local suppliers provided pricing and delivery for the lithium packs, the chargers, the removal of the lead acid packs and chargers, as well as retrofit installation of the new batteries and charger. So these packs are not OEM, and neither are the battery chargers. I have no information on the type of batteries, the charger, the BMS (or even if there IS a BMS) until I get my hands on them.
I was told that the range on the battery packs was an immediate disappointment. The lithium packs did not provide as much range as the original lead packs did. I found this information .. strange. But I will reserve judgment until I actually see the packs. Perhaps the packs were under-sized due to their cost.
The Polaris Rangers are apparently in otherwise good shape mechanically. The controllers still apparently work. But the packs do not supply power any longer. I suspect a problem with the charging system ... or perhaps the BMS if one was supplied? .. but it needs to be investigated.
May 2017
I was the only bidder, so I got all 4 of them. That was not exactly my plan - I had wanted at least one. And it would have been nice to get a second, so that I could compare them and perhaps have a supply of spare parts so that when I found a problem I didn't have to order a part and wait for weeks for it to arrive.
So I plan to show up with a 48V lithium battery pack to connect, replacing the existing pack, and see if I can drive the first one onto my trailer. Or, if I have to, winch the Polaris Ranger EV onto my trailer to bring it home.
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New shoes!
Had to upgrade a little from the stock "slippers" ?
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charge indicator light blinks
My charge indicator light is blinking. Not the green one when it's charging but he red line one when your running.
itls blinking in the low 2 bars piece as if it is not charged.
i charged it, it charged fine as indicated on the charger under the hood. but the light keeps blinking like it's not charged.
anyone know what causes this.
itls blinking in the low 2 bars piece as if it is not charged.
i charged it, it charged fine as indicated on the charger under the hood. but the light keeps blinking like it's not charged.
anyone know what causes this.
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Question
Newbe here looking for advice... First I'll say I really like Polaris having 2 Sportsman ATVs, 1 gas Ranger and 1 EV Ranger.
My 2015 Ranger EV batteries just went bad in. The Dealership checked them out and tells me I'm looking at $2300 to replace them with aftermarket batteries, (lead acid of course). They flat out tell me they wont use Polaris batteries, not real encouraging... They also tell me I'll probably be looking at new batteries every 2-3 years.
I've looked at the Voltroincs conversion but not sure I want to drop $7K more into this machine.
I really like this quiet Ranger and I know this is a Polaris Forum but I gotta ask... Are there other alternatives to the Ranger EV that might already come out with Lion batteries or am I better off upgrading this rig?
Thanks in advance!
My 2015 Ranger EV batteries just went bad in. The Dealership checked them out and tells me I'm looking at $2300 to replace them with aftermarket batteries, (lead acid of course). They flat out tell me they wont use Polaris batteries, not real encouraging... They also tell me I'll probably be looking at new batteries every 2-3 years.
I've looked at the Voltroincs conversion but not sure I want to drop $7K more into this machine.
I really like this quiet Ranger and I know this is a Polaris Forum but I gotta ask... Are there other alternatives to the Ranger EV that might already come out with Lion batteries or am I better off upgrading this rig?
Thanks in advance!
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Voltronix Battery Options
Looking at Voltronix options for 2012 EV. There is the 260 AH approach, along with two configurations of 200 AH. The 200 AH approach uses either 16 200 AH cells or 32 100 AH cells, both are 10 kW packs. The cost for the 32 cell option is significantly less than the 16 cell option. There is a weight difference, the 32 100 AH cell approach weighs about 395 Lbs, their website does not list product info for the 200 AH cell, but 16 cells of 260 AH weight about 317 Lbs. Aside from weight, what other considerations should be taken into account between the 16 cell 200 AH vs 32 cell 100 AH? I assume electrically they are the same.
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keyboard clicks
Is it just me? Been havinging trouble typing in the text box only on this site. very slow response to keyboard and some letters don't show.
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winch install
Have decided to fabricate a 2 battery tray for installation of 4500# winch. On the 2011 i used 2 EXT30 batteries. On the 2014 that has the Li-ion kit i will also run some 4" LED lights or light bar all using the winch batteries for power source.
What are some of you using for the winch batteries? They are 130.00 at O'reilly's. I have also seen same battery at Walmart site by big Crank for 70.00.
What are some of you using for the winch batteries? They are 130.00 at O'reilly's. I have also seen same battery at Walmart site by big Crank for 70.00.
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Polaris EV vs Textron Recoil IS
We are beginning to test these two side by side. Will have more info to share in the weeks to come. Test to be completed in NC, VA, and OH mountains. 2014 Polaris EV with 6 month old batteries vs new 2017 Recoil IS.
Initial thoughts are as follows:
- Recoil is much quieter due to no squeaks and a lot less motor noise.
- EV is noticeable more stable on side hills.
- EV feels like front end is heavier on severe inclines
- Recoil has more run time per charge.
- EV rides slightly better due to better shock dampening but Recoil IS is still very good.
- Recoil has best warranty. 2 years vs 6 months.
- Recoil has a stronger engine braking plus it controls both front and rear tires vs just rear like on EV. This allows for better downhill control.
- EV is wider with more room for passengers. This could be good or bad depending on trail width. EV being wider improves sidehill stability as mentioned earlier.
- Recoil does not overheat when ran in 70F or warmer temps like EV does. We have several EV's and all overheat in higher temps when used in hilly terrain. The new Recoil just ran and ran and never once over heated no matter how hard we pushed it.
- The EV seems to have slightly better traction on severe inclines but keep in mind it also has improved aftermarket Grim Reaper tires which are more aggressive than the factory Recoil tires.
-The Recoil feels very solid and well built. Actually a good bit more so than the EV. But it's still new and the Recoil's track record is not great. I know Textron bought Bad Boy several years ago and it's apparent they are putting a lot of money and effort in improving this machine. It feels very solid and well built now. Time will tell though if it will hold up. Either way initial quality, quietness plus a solid feel makes a Recoil a solid winner in this category.
Lastly, keep in mind that the IS version has more batteries than the standard rear solid axle Recoil thus has improved run time. It is also $2-3k more in cost.
More info to come!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Initial thoughts are as follows:
- Recoil is much quieter due to no squeaks and a lot less motor noise.
- EV is noticeable more stable on side hills.
- EV feels like front end is heavier on severe inclines
- Recoil has more run time per charge.
- EV rides slightly better due to better shock dampening but Recoil IS is still very good.
- Recoil has best warranty. 2 years vs 6 months.
- Recoil has a stronger engine braking plus it controls both front and rear tires vs just rear like on EV. This allows for better downhill control.
- EV is wider with more room for passengers. This could be good or bad depending on trail width. EV being wider improves sidehill stability as mentioned earlier.
- Recoil does not overheat when ran in 70F or warmer temps like EV does. We have several EV's and all overheat in higher temps when used in hilly terrain. The new Recoil just ran and ran and never once over heated no matter how hard we pushed it.
- The EV seems to have slightly better traction on severe inclines but keep in mind it also has improved aftermarket Grim Reaper tires which are more aggressive than the factory Recoil tires.
-The Recoil feels very solid and well built. Actually a good bit more so than the EV. But it's still new and the Recoil's track record is not great. I know Textron bought Bad Boy several years ago and it's apparent they are putting a lot of money and effort in improving this machine. It feels very solid and well built now. Time will tell though if it will hold up. Either way initial quality, quietness plus a solid feel makes a Recoil a solid winner in this category.
Lastly, keep in mind that the IS version has more batteries than the standard rear solid axle Recoil thus has improved run time. It is also $2-3k more in cost.
More info to come!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Wyoming Trails
I've posted this on different sites...
We are headed out to the Bighorn's next week to check out the trails with our Ranger. We've never been there...looking for some advice on trails, good places to stay, helpful hints, etc... heading to Sheridan and then anything goes from there!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We are headed out to the Bighorn's next week to check out the trails with our Ranger. We've never been there...looking for some advice on trails, good places to stay, helpful hints, etc... heading to Sheridan and then anything goes from there!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Battery charge indicators mismatch
I have a 2013 48V MID EV. It has just under 50 hours. For the last year - it takes several attempts to get the battery discharge indicator with the red bars to show fully charged, even though the charge status indicator shows charged (steady green). I will unplug and re-plug and try again. Almost always it takes two attempts, occasionally three attempts. Another strange thing is that the subsequent attempts are faster that the original attempt, almost as if the batteries are really charged.
Any thoughts on what could be wrong or how to trouble shoot the problem?
Is there a way to tell if the battery is actually fully charged, even though the battery discharge indicator shows just a couple of red bars?
Any thoughts on what could be wrong or how to trouble shoot the problem?
Is there a way to tell if the battery is actually fully charged, even though the battery discharge indicator shows just a couple of red bars?
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Polaris Ranger Ev not going full throttle
Hi all,
I have 2012 polaris ranger ev. Changed 48 V relay with original, changed gear switch, direction switch.
All batteries are new. Charger works perfect. But sevcon blinks 2 times and ranger goes so slow. It accelerates a bit and feels like cuts power. Continues to go with like 30 km/h speed.
What could be the problem ? I'm about to go crazy tried everything.
I have 2012 polaris ranger ev. Changed 48 V relay with original, changed gear switch, direction switch.
All batteries are new. Charger works perfect. But sevcon blinks 2 times and ranger goes so slow. It accelerates a bit and feels like cuts power. Continues to go with like 30 km/h speed.
What could be the problem ? I'm about to go crazy tried everything.
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